Léoville Poyferré 1982

There is no question that Leoville Poyferre was not making wines at the level of quality they have since 1990. That said, the 1982 is a great wine, no doubt because of the vintage rather than the winemaking at that time. A brilliant effort, it boasts a dense purple color as well as a sweet, flowery bouquet revealing plenty of creme de cassis, plum, and cherry notes, stunning concentration, a boatload of power, sweet tannins (the sweetest and easiest to taste among the St.-Juliens), and a long finish. Although close to full maturity, it has at least 20-25 years of life remaining.

The 1982 Léoville Poyferré continues to drink brilliantly at age 40 (and I have enjoyed three bottles this year), wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet cassis fruit mingled with notions of loamy soil, cigar wrapper, licorice, black truffle and pencil shavings. Full-bodied, broad and sumptuous, with a velvety attack that segues into a deep, fleshy core, it's generous and enveloping, with lively acids and fine, powdery tannins that still deliver a vestige of back-end grip. Today, this is a strong contender for the title of Saint-Julien's wine of the vintage, with Ducru-Beaucaillou and Léoville-Las Cases as its only plausible rivals.

The 1982 Leoville-Poyferre possesses great concentration, full body as well as considerable structure. A dense purple/plum color reveals some lightening at the rim. Terrific concentration hits the palate with mouth-searing levels of tannin. Full-bodied, thick, structured, muscular, and loaded with potential, this 1982 requires another 5-6 years of cellaring. It should age effortlessly for another 25-30 years. Patience is required. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2030