Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette, Delas Frères 2009

The magnificent 2009 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes boasts a black/purple color as well as a wonderful nose of creosote, incense, charcoal, blackberry jam, acacia flowers, white chocolate and a hint of espresso roast. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with low acidity and magnificent density, this 2009 can be drunk in 5-6 years or cellared for 30-50 years.

One of the top wines in this portfolio is the 2009 Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette. Aged in 50% new oak, it exhibits abundant aromas of creme de cassis as well as hints of acacia flowers, crushed rocks and graphite along with massive concentration, full body, a dense style, a boatload of tannin and enormous extract. It requires a decade of cellaring and should drink well for 50-60 years thereafter. Jacques Granges thinks this is the finest example of this cuvee he has yet made. I can't think of any reason to disagree.

Under the inspired leadership of winemaker/administrator Jacques Grange, who has carte blanche authority from the proprietors, the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm, Delas has been on a fabulous qualitative roll for over a decade. They have enjoyed some great successes, so it is hard to say 2009 may be the magnum opus of Jacques Grange, but it certainly looks fabulous.