Clos de Tart, Mommessin 2010

Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2010 Clos de Tart Grand Cru would have been made by angels if not Sylvain Pitiot (angels that had graduated from University of Dijon with a degree in oenology). The nose is so ineffably pure that it is guaranteed to bring a tear to the eye. In a strange way it reminds me of a top Armand Rousseau with its awe-inspiring transparency. The palate is ethereal - divine balance, a gentle grip, a saline edge and poise on the finish that takes your breath away. Iron fist in a velvet glove, etc. This is surely legend in the making.

The man with the bluest eyes in Burgundy, a.k.a. winemaker Sylvain Pitiot, told me that the 2010 Clos de Tart was picked almost a month later than the 2011 on 6 October with a yield hovering around 26 hectoliters per hectare and that the smallness of the berries meant that bunches were not compact. The bouquet is very seductive with introspective black fruit rather than red. The mineralite is tangible just below the surface, then a hint of oyster shell emerging with aeration. The palate has wonderful volume, coming over all fleshy and silky in the mouth thanks to the layered fresh strawberry and red cherry fruit. There is nigh perfectly judged acidity and a feminine finish that is totally entrancing. What a beautiful, feminine, refined Clos de Tart! Drink 2016-2030+