Bâtard Montrachet, Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey 2010

The 2010 Batard-Montrachet bursts from the glass with an exotic melange of intensely perfumed yellow stone fruits, flowers and spices. It boasts marvelous inner sweetness and layers of expressive fruit that seem to blossom endlessly in the glass, filling out the wine's broad-shouldered frame all the way through to the huge, viscous finish. In 2010, the Batard is seamless, round and totally inviting. I want this wine. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.

This is ever-so-slightly riper than the Bienvenue with a mix of white and yellow orchard fruit, dried rose petal and discreet spice nuances. The large-scaled, dense and powerful flavors possess incredible intensity, indeed to the point where this is almost painful before concluding in an explosively long, lemony and stunningly persistent finish. This is one of those 'wow' wines as it almost takes your breath away.

Good pale color. Brooding aromas of pineapple, mirabelle, clove, menthol and licorice. Conveys an impression of volume without weight, thanks to a near-perfect sugar/acid balance. Began rather inexpressive in the mouth but gained in complexity with air. Most impressive today on the mounting, palate-staining back end, which leaves behind notes of citrus fruit, wild herbs, menthol, wet stone and vanillin oak.