Ormes de Pez 2006

Somewhat herbaceous but round and sensual, with sweet cherry and cassis fruit as well as hints of incense and damp earth, this is an up-front, precociously styled St.-Estephe to drink over the next decade.

The 2006 Château Les Ormes de Pez has a slightly dusty, earthy bouquet that is typical Saint Estèphe. The palate is medium-bodied with bold tannin, mulberry and red plum notes, with hints of sage and cooked meat towards the finish; though a subsequent bottle demonstrated less of that distracting dustiness on the nose and also better weight on the palate.

Dark crimson with a slightly weak rim. Heady, gamey, not quite pure on the nose. Rather tired fruit - no directness, a bit heavy and lacking definition. More freshness, please - not a common complaint in 2006.

Tasted at Lynch Bages. A lot of sweet vanillary new oak on the opulent, quite showy nose. A touch of violets begins to develop in the glass, with a scent of brown sugar in the background. The palate is well balanced with good acidity, supple black toasty fruits and layers of new oak. Cedar, cassis and blackcurrants on the finish. A sturdy Saint Estèphe that should improve in barrel. Tasted April 2007.