Montrachet, Bouchard Père et Fils 2012

(from a .89 ha parcel of Puligny vines).
This is almost as elegant and refined aromatically as the La Cabotte with even more complexity to the gorgeous and highly nuanced nose of dried flowers, spice elements and a broad range of both white and yellow orchard fruit scents. There is superb volume and richness to the big-bodied and very serious flavors that are overtly muscular and also blessed with an abundance of dry extract that, in the same fashion as the Corton-Charlemagne, imparts a borderline chewy quality to the faultlessly balanced finish. What I find interesting about this wine is that it is at once openly decadent and opulent yet it remains beautifully refined. Whatever the magic, the key point is that this is most impressive.

Bright, pale yellow. Brooding aromas of apple, cinnamon and white flowers. Fat, broad and sweet; rich in dry extract but very young and unevolved today. The back end displays enticing saline minerality but also a distinctly phenolic, even tannic impression. No shortage of acidity here.