Despite a notably ripe aromatic profile that also flirts with the exotic, the nose maintains a sense of elegance with intensely spicy scents of apricot, white peach, floral and citrus hints that are trimmed in toasty oak. There is excellent richness but also fine detail to the focused, powerful and tautly muscular flavors that possess terrific intensity on the explosive and hugely long finish. While a big wine by most standards, this is not really a big Lafon Montrachet and it essentially remains a wine of finesse and refinement.
The 2011 Montrachet Grand Cru was one of the last to be picked. There are just five barrels, minus the bottle that Dominique sequestered for his fish supper. It is understated at first, but blossoms with aeration offering apricot, hints of passion fruit, cold limestone and eventually Turkish Delight. The palate is extremely well-balanced, pure and focused with orange peel, marmalade, quince and a suggestion of white chocolate. It is extremely intense with an enormously long tail on the finish. This is utterly entrancing: a Montrachet that justifies the reputation of the name. Drink now-2030.