Les Carmes Haut Brion 2012

The first year with Guillaume Pouthier as technical director, and (not coincidentally) the first where stems were being introduced into the winemaking process (they went straight in with 30%). A richer, more gourmet vintage than 2011 generally, and you feel it - certainly there is no indication that using stems is making the wine less concentrated, as this has a significantly more precision and punch than the 2011, and for me is more successful. Sappy juice runs through the plate, along with raspberry, red cherry and blackberry fruits, creamy brioche through the mid palate, with smoked cedar and campfire. Fresh acidities on the finish and a tingle of minerality perhaps give a hint of something different happening in the winemaking. 3.65ph, 40% new oak.