Chevalier Montrachet la Cabotte, Bouchard Père et Fils 2014

(Bouchard has been separately vinifying this parcel, which at one time was part of Montrachet, since 1992 though the first commercial release was not until 1997; Bouchard jokingly refers to this parcel as their “Montrachet du haute pente”, or upper slope Montrachet). This presently has the same nose as the Corton-Charlemagne as it’s both reduced and mildly woody though I would not expect this to persist beyond the first few years as the reduction is not heavy. There is once again outstanding volume and concentration as well as impressive size, weight and richness to the highly seductive big-bodied flavors that possess a plenitude of dry extract that both coats the palate and buffers the firm acid spine shaping the gorgeously long and well-balanced finale. In 2014 this more resembles Montrachet than Chevalier and I would make the same observation here that I made with the Corton-Charlemagne and Chevalier that while this should amply reward extended cellaring it is not so backward that it shouldn’t drink well after 6 to 8 years.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Bouchard's 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru has a much more tropical-driven bouquet with scents of mango and nectarine developing in lieu of the mineralité you would expect from this vintage. The palate is well balanced with a tropical-tinged entry and well-judged acidity, but maybe a Chevalier that was picked a bit too late like that of Olivier Leflaive? It needs more mineralité and race on the finish to be up there with the best. Drink Date 2019 - 2032