Tertre Rôteboeuf 2004

Exceptionally deep, dark crimson. Real lift and savour on the red velvet carpet of super-ripe Merlot (riper than virtually any other St Emilion I came across - presumably thanks to the naturally low-yielding, low cordon-trained vines here which are never thinned, even in 2004). Some floral topnotes and magnificently juicy and round - quite exceptional for the vintage. Very silky texture. More obvious tannins than stablemate Roc de Cambes - more obviously an aristocrat than the beautifully sweet Roc.

The bottled 2004 Tertre Roteboeuf is a very good effort for the vintage, revealing a Chateauneuf du Pape-like kirsch liqueur note intermixed with hints of beef blood, sweet herbs, and licorice. It will not make anyone forget the monumental 2000 or top-notch 1998, but it is a well-made effort displaying a medium-bodied, lush finish with noticeable tannin. It appears to be at an incongruous stage of development, showing both sweetness and hardness, somewhat like the classic Chinese play of sweet versus sour. It reminds me of a lighter version of Terte Roteboeuf’s successful 1994. Drink it over the next 12-15 years.