Barolo Mosconi, Conterno Fantino 2013

The 2013 Barolo Mosconi Vigna Ped takes on a life of its own almost as soon as it is poured into the glass. This is a dominating effort. It shows muscle and volume with throbbing contrasts between austerity and sweetness. I must admit that it is almost too much of a good thing, and I almost disliked the wine until it convincingly won me over, thanks to its subtle evolution in the glass. Based on a massal selection, the grapes were planted as far back as 1950. Select commercial yeasts were used in winemaking up until 2008, but ambient yeasts have taken over since 2011. Dark and super rich fruit is followed by exotic spice, cured leather and smoked bacon. The finish is robust and layered. It needs many more years until it fleshes out and straightens out. This is a bottle to keep in your cellar.