Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises 2007

The world has about 3,000 bottles to fight off of this extraterrestrial nectar. I am delighted that they have dared to have 8 grams of sugar in its dosage this seductive vintage. From the beginning, my senses are bombarded by colossal impressive, magnificent and colorful impressions. The essence of inflated fruit is similar to a Beerenauslese from Rheingau as well as white and red Burgundy of the finest brand. Extremely drinkable from start in a similar style as the 1990 and 1989 back in the days. Personally, I am convinced that VVF has become even more concentrated and high-graded when the vineyard in Bouzy disappeared and we are dealing with 100% Aÿ. 2008 has all the conditions to become one of history's greatest. Until then, I'm delighted to enjoy this deliciously sensuous dainty bit which on the highest volume conveys notes of orange marmalade, honey, roses, honeysuckle, olive oil, tar, black truffle and cep mushroom in a unisoned golden symphony.

The pinot-based fruit underlying this wine is in evidence because there is an abundance of citrus, baked bread and floral characters that include rose and acacia blossom scents on the utterly transfixing nose, there are also background wisps of various red berry nuances. There is a wonderful and beguiling texture to strikingly complex, intense and vibrant flavors that possess a highly refined mouth feel thanks to the ultra-fine bead of the supporting mousse that shapes the focused and gorgeously long finale that is agreeably dry but not really austere. I was knocked out not only but the texture but also the imposing depth and while these two elements render the '07 VVF approachable, it's clear that this should generously repay extended keeping. In short, this is a genuinely great effort.

Disgorged June 2017. To be released at the end of 2017 and embargoed until November 2017. Dosage 8 g/l. All Aÿ Pinot Noir. Until 2004 Bollinger had a clos in Bouzy but phylloxera got it – so now they just have the two in Aÿ, which yield about 2,500 bottles. Deep honey copper colour. Rich, creamy and full of pleasure. Rich nose yet lift on the palate. Utterly hedonistic. Drink 2017-2026.