Barolo, Elio Grasso 2014
In 2014, Gianluca Grasso opted to bottle one Barolo that is a blend of juice from Gavarini and Chiniera. Grasso's 2014 Barolo is a beautiful wine that captures the personality of the vintage. Lithe, perfumed and aromatic, the 2014 exudes class from start to finish. The flavors are wonderfully bright and vibrant, with plenty of red fruit and expressive floral and overtones. The 2014 is a pretty, feminine wine that may very well surprise down the road. The Gavarini fruit saw 25 days on the skins, while fermentation and maceration for the Ginestra lots was 30-45 days, all with submerged cap. When bottling time came, Grasso preferred the blended Barolo to what would have been vineyard designate Gavarini and Ginestra Barolos. The juice from Rüncot went into the the Langhe Nebbiolo, which is the custom when the flagship Riserva is not bottled.
|Score: 92||Antonio Galloni, vinous.com, February 2018|
Yields were 40% down due to hail but despite that, Gianluca Grasso continued to vinify both of his great Chiniera and Gavarini crus separately, with the view to making both wines. Only at the end of the elevage did he decide that the sum of both was greater than the parts. The result is a wine with a wonderfully enticing nose of roses and red cherry fruit - quintessential Piedmont. The palate is gentle and patient but gradually grows in stature and power - you can certainly tell that the two crus are involved as the texture and complexity are very impressive and belie the generic Barolo label. The red fruit begins to give way to spice and some sweet black cherries. Velvety and plush with sleek, integrated tannins, this will drink beautifully on arrival but will happily last for a decade or more. Whilst I'm sure Grasso would've liked to make seperate wines, he has given us a treat with what can only be described as a super-cuvee built around elegance, complexity and purity.
|Score: 16.5+||Farr Vintners, Farr Tasting, March 2018|
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