Dom Perignon 2008

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and structure. Today, the richness of the fruit is especially evident. Readers who own the 2008 should be thrilled, but patience is a must. Drink 2020-2058.

The finest release of this iconic cuvée since the 1996 vintage, the 2008 Dom Pérignon wafts from the glass with an incipiently complex bouquet of Meyer lemon, green apple, dried white flowers and oyster shell, with only subtle hints of the smoky, autolytic aromas that have been such a prominent signature of recent releases. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and complete, its notable flesh and amplitude controlled by incisive acids, with a youthfully exuberant but elegant mousse and a long, beautifully delineated finish. Considering the sheer size of this cuvée, it's a remarkable achievement and a fitting release with which to conclude Richard Geoffroy's tenure as chef de cave. Given the 2008's intensity and balance, I suspect purists will be anticipating later disgorgements with lower dosage and more time on the lees with particular enthusiasm. Tasted three times, with consistent results.

This is yet another confirmation in what is already an extended list of just how great the 2008 vintage is in Champagne. Moreover, unlike some '08s which are beginning to display some development, even secondary characteristics, the Dom remains quite backward, indeed even grumpy. A reluctant and compact nose of yeast, lemon-lime, quinine and Granny Smith apple remains reluctant even with extended airing and while I'm not generally a fan of decanting Champagne (too much effervescence lost!), this is a wine where I might be inclined to do so. The palate impression of the chiseled, indeed laser-like, flavors is borderline painful as the super-fine but quite dense mousse is seriously, seriously intense while the bone-dry, equally compact and driving finish is perfectly balanced though decidedly austere. I believe this will be, note carefully the emphasis on will be, one of the all-time great vintages for DP but it's honestly pointless to open a bottle now, unless you're just curious, that's just how backward it is. 2030+

A bright and pale straw colour in the glass, this is pure lemon pith, struck flint and fresh bread on the nose - very youthful, vibrant and tight. The palate reveals much more, with toasty, smoky complexity pairing with a powerful, dense core of ripe lemon fruit. The fine, yet creamy mousse adds more weight, but there is superb precision with fresh but balancing acidity and rich notes of brioche from the time on lees. Despite the intensity of flavour there is great focus - with a linear drive through to a very long finish that is full of citrus, white flowers, and creamy lees flavour. An absolute knockout champagne that could be Dom Perignon's best of the 21st Century.

Deep and generous, yet driven, with delicious salted-butter and salted-caramel notes underneath the initial lemon and chalk. Really expands on the palate in all directions. Lemon cream and shortcrust. Creamy, yet underpinned by a sharp backbone of acidity throughout. Drink or hold.

Brisk, tiny mousse. Notably rich nose - very Dom P! There's a hint of something marine on the nose (Michael Broadbent's oyster shells?) and then extremely tight and lacy - it somehow reminded me of a sponge because of springy texture. Masses of energy here, as well as the usual flirtatiousness. It will continue to open out, I'm sure. I tasted it very cool and then went back to it at almost room temperature a couple of hours later and it stood up extremely well. The official Geoffroy description of this vintage is 'athletic' and 'vertical'. 'All 2008s are bright in terms of fruit; we want ours to shine white light. We have deliberately warmed it up a bit, working on the muscle to better integrate the acidity.

Easily the best Champagne I had all year, first tasted at a château lunch. I couldn't stop thinking about it, and eventually bought a bottle for my husband's 50th. Just so much power and precision, while still having the delicacy, easy glamour and the most moreish delivery of fresh acidities and fleshy citrus. At it opens, toasted brioche, liqourice root and oyster shall curl out of the glass. Richard Geoffroy cellar master.

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is the first time the estate has released a wine out of order (the 2009 was released before the 2008) but the estate loved the wine so much they felt it warranted additional aging. This is a rich, powerful wine that still shows incredible purity and elegance, with a stacked, concentrated feel on the palate. It’s rare to find such a mix of ripe, pure, concentrated fruit paired with this level of purity, focus, and precision. This is a legendary Dom that surpasses all the great vintages of Dom I have experience with, including the 1990, 1996, and 2002.

The 2008 vintage of Dom Pérignon continues to blossom beautifully and remains one of the greatest relatively recent vintages produced of this iconic cuvée. It is crafted from a fifty-fifty blend of chardonnay and pinot noir in this year. I had not drunk a bottle in five years and the wine has started to nicely blossom over that timeframe, with its girdle of acidity now starting to relax a bit and the wine starting to emerge from its reductive period of youthful austerity to offer up a stunning nose of green apple, pear, a touch of menthol, lemon peel, a beautiful base of chalky minerality, dried flowers, gentle notes of DP botanicals and plenty of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and impeccably balanced, with stunning depth of fruit at the core, great mineral drive and grip, utterly refined mousse, superb complexity and a very, very long, precise and refined finish. This is still a decade away from its true apogee, but its structure is starting to peel back marvelously and it is now drinking with true generosity. Great juice. (Drink between 2025-2075)

Believe the hype! I’ve tasted this over 20 times since its release. Richard Geoffroy (ex-chef-de-cave) used his experience of the similar 1996 vintage, waiting for a little extra ripeness before picking (waiting for that critical phenolic ripeness). A champagne that is evolving at a glacial pace, my tasting note is almost unchanged. Still that superb freshness of fruit (with just a kick of creaminess beginning to show on the finish). Weightless intensity is married to precise and gorgeous aromatics, a long pithy finish with plenty of dry extract waiting to develop. The toastiness is discreet for the moment, but it will come. Simply stunning. Alcohol 12.50%. Drink from 2025-2045. ***** 5 star wine.