Cornas Reynard, Thierry Allemand 1999

(13.6% alcohol, very high for a wine chez Allemand, who has not chaptalized since 1993) Deep purple-ruby, as dark a Cornas as I saw in November. More reticent but purer and more nuanced aromas of blackberry, blueberry, violet, game and bitter chocolate. Bright and sappy, with vibrant, penetrating flavors of black fruits, minerals, pepper and roasted meat. Comes across as sweeter than the Chaillot; this too is powerful, but here the substantial dusty tannins seem riper and more pliant, and make their presence felt much later. Allemand says this wine, as well, could use more finesse, and also feels the Reynard is in the process of closing down in bottle, but I'm impressed nonetheless.