Chevalier Montrachet, Bouchard Père et Fils 2017

Pale primrose, with some exotic notes, possibly botrytis, on the nose but also the cool chiselled character of Chevalier. This is impeccable on the palate, plenty of oak but that supports the immaculate white fruit with its restrained intensity. Very fine. The nose flattens out a little with a more lactic touch and the acidity is less striking than in some.

Just bottled under Diam 10, the 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru opens in the glass with aromas of Meyer lemon, green apple, pastry cream and white flowers that's exactly as I remember it. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and attractively vibrant, with good depth and concentration at the core, succulent acids and a long, precise finish. Pure and delicate, this is a lovely Chevalier in an understated, makeup-free style that confirms its excellent showing from barrel. While it's a little shut down after the mise en bouteille, the charm and expressiveness of the vintage mean that it is still quite open for inspection.

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru offers up aromas of lemon oil, pastry cream, white flowers, crushed rocks and mandarin. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with excellent concentration, chalky extract and juicy acids that lend the wine lovely precision, concluding with a pure, tongue-tingling finish. This is very promising and will be well worth seeking out.