Graham Stone Terraces, Graham's Port 2017

The 2017 Graham’s The Stone Terraces Vintage Port is certainly a step up from the regular Graham’s. The Stone Terraces takes its name from the terraces at Quinta dos Malvedos where it was picked from August 28 until September 15. This is more complex on the nose with compelling aromas of damson, bilberry, hints of lavender, orange blossom and camphor. The delineation is wonderful. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannin, brilliantly-judged acidity that counterbalances the intense black cherry, boysenberry and blueberry fruit. There is superb grip here and conveys a sense of symmetry that leaves you yearning for the next sip. This is the more erudite sibling of the regular Graham’s that will deserve a decade in the cellar. Total production is 6,360 wax-sealed bottles, 180 magnum and 120 Tappit Hens.

Packed with juicy, bramble-laced black currant, açaí berry and fig notes, this features the vivid fruit and energy of the vintage. Graphite and tar flavors score the finish, giving this terrific cut and extra drive. Seriously long, with the fruit staying very persistent. This is built for the long haul and has a bit of a regal feel. Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. Best from 2035 through 2060. 600 cases made, 52 cases imported. — JM

The 2017 The Stone Terraces Vintage Port, from a specific plot, is predominantly Touriga Nacional. It comes in with 117 grams of residual sugar and was bottled about a month before this tasting after 18 months in seasoned oak vats. However, this was a pre-bottling sample, as the bottled sample was not quite ready to taste. I was—relatively—unimpressed with the first pour of this. The second pour was silk for texture coupled with pure power. This is relatively elegant in the mid-palate, but the muscle is very old-school. It is not jammy, but it is remarkably concentrated as well. 2035 - 2085