Chevalier Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive 2017

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru delivers a vibrant but reserved bouquet of lemon zest, white flowers and crushed chalk that is still some distance from displaying all its breadth of expression. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and tensile, with a tight-knit core, searingly intense chalky extract and an electric sense of energy, concluding with a long finish. This is the most linear Chevaliers I tasted in the 2017 vintage, which was typically somewhat more open at the same stage in Anne-Claude's day, so it will be interesting to see how much plenitude it displays in bottle.

An all-but mute if cool and elegant nose only grudgingly reveals its aromas of wet stone, white flowers, tangerine peel and jasmine tea. There is almost painful intensity to the larger-scaled yet refined flavors that brim with both dry extract and a driving minerality before concluding in an equally long finish. This too is very clearly built-to-age and is a superb Chevalier that is going to require extended patience.

Clear bright mid yellow colour. The bouquet is full of energy, with floral notes on top of a powerful fruit. A little infiltration of tangerine notes, but this is a complete and well constructed Chevalier with very good length. This goes on building in the glass to reach a crystalline and powerful finish. Tasted Jul 2021. ***** 5 Star Wine