Bonnes Mares, Domaine Mugnier 2017

The 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is also showing brilliantly from bottle, unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, wild berries and plums mingled with notions of peonies, grilled squab, spices and musk. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with good concentration and ripe acids, framed by an ample endowment of fine, powdery tannin that renders this more structured than the corresponding Amoureuses but not in any sense more austere. While this is quite charming and expressive for young Bonnes Mares, at least a decade's patience will be warranted.

Note: 50% of the vines in this .35 ha parcel were planted in 1980 and 1988, with the remainder planted in the '50s; the vines are planted in both terres rouges and terres blanches but there is a slight majority in the latter
A relatively high-toned nose speaks of various red and blue berries, violet and a whiff of earth. There is a really lovely texture to the impressively dense flavors that brim with sappy dry extract before culminating in a powerful, balanced and sneaky long finish. This is a big wine in the context of the 2017 vintage though it's not particularly austere.