|Subregion||France > Bordeaux > Left Bank > Pauillac|
Originally classified as a second growth, Mouton made some of the greatest red Bordeaux wines ever in the period after the end of the Second World War and was finally upgraded to First Growth in 1973. Every year since the 1940s a different artist has decorated the label. Grapes are now selected only from the core original vineyard site and the wine is always a classic example of both Cabernet Sauvignon and Pauillac. This great first growth combines the strength and power of Latour with the polish and charm of Lafite and the unmistakable Mouton notes of cigar box, spice and cassis.
The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is a terrific wine in the making, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries and wild berries mingled with notions of violets, espresso roast, pipe tobacco and mint. Medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, it's a layered, enveloping wine that's ample and concentrated, with succulent acids, melting tannins and a long, resonant finish. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc that attained 13.1% alcohol, this is a demonstrative, sensual Mouton that's the fruit of extreme selection, and that may well make my score seem conservative with further élevage. Bravo to the talented Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy and his team.
The 2021 Mouton Rothschild marks a return to the classic style of this First Growth after three hot vintages. Unsurprisingly, the Cabernet Sauvignon takes control and expresses cigar smoke and graphite aromas. This is very well defined, yet examining the wine over several minutes, I was searching in vain for that "magic touch" exuded in recent vintages. The palate is beautifully-knit, quite edgy on the opening, comparatively slender and markedly sapid. Unapologetically linear on the finish, it is as if the growing season snipped off the frills that defines a great Mouton-Rothschild. This is a very fine First Growth, yet I hope it just gains a bit of weight and, to use a more accurate word, "presence", during the remainder of its barrel maturation. 13.1% alcohol
The yield here was a fairly normal 40 hl/ha in 2021 but a strict selection process has resulted in 20% less grand vin than last year. The blend is 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Deep purple colour. Pure cassis fruit wafts from the glass with incense, chinese five spice, cedar and bonfire smoke. The palate is sinewy and chewy, plentiful Cabernet tannins offering a bold structure for the vintage. Pencil shavings add a savoury note to fine black fruit on the palate, which is layered, long and linear. This is a deep, brooding iteration of 2021 and is a vin de garde. Very long on the finish. This may well be a conservative score - there is clear potential but the wine is quite folded in on itself for now.
A firm and compact Mouton with a powerful tannin frame for the vintage, yet it remains fine and precise as it opens to a velvety texture. Black fruit with tar, pencil lead and tobacco. Driven and firm. A little angular and tight at the moment. 89% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 1% cabernet franc.
The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is composed of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc, harvested from 25 September to 6 October, and aging in 100% new oak. Deep purple-black colored, it needs a little swirling to unlock classic notions of warm cassis, pencil shavings, and ripe black plums, leading to hints of lavender, cracked black pepper, and crushed rocks. Light to medium-bodied, the palate is tightly wound with layers of black fruits and mineral undertones, framed by fine-grained tannins and bags of freshness, finishing on a lingering iron ore note. pH 3.73. IPT 59.
Jewel-ruby in colour, crystalline reflections. This is less exuberant than a usual Mouton, more of a classic Pauillac with intensity and depth through the palate. Plenty of grip and length, with rich layers of raspberry and blackberry fruits and curls of gunsmoke, liqourice and cocoa bean, giving hints of a more generous wine that should be released further over ageing. Focused and supple. 100% new oak. 3.73ph, 59IPT, 41hl/h yield. Harvest September 25 until October 6. The first vintage where it was Jean-Emmauel Danjoy from beginning to end, after Philippe Dhalluin's retiremement. 41% of overall production in Mouton. Strong candidate for an upscore in bottle.
89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc. Cask sample.
Blackcurrant and cranberry notes indicate the dominance of Cabernet in the blend. Meaty but fresh on the palate, the tannins silky and dense. Plenty of substance here, the fruit generous, the tannins firm, providing length on the finish. Rich, within the context of the vintage, but fresh at the same time. Looks to have staying power. (JL) 13.1%
Drink 2030 – 2050