Shiraz the Wheelwright, Henschke 2017

Eden Valley estate fruit, planted in 1968 and matured in 10% new oak (95/5% French/American) hogsheads for 18 months prior to blending. Notes of mulberry, blueberry and redcurrant flit above the bass tones of dark and black berries, cut with spice, licorice, dark chocolate, sage and a scattering of brambly, briar-like notes. Graceful red fruits and spice feature on the palate which, like all Henschke wines, shows detail and elegance with perhaps a little more red fruit coming through. The balance and clarity of form impresses greatly.

Deep, dark red colour with a faint trace of purple remaining. The bouquet shows rich and ripe cassis with a top note of Ribena, evoking canned corn or asparagus. A light patina of the dried herbs typical of Eden Valley. It's very intense in the mouth, with firm, slighty grippy tannins that run the full length of the palate, leaving a slight aftertaste of bitter astringency, which softens off with repeat tastes. Further ageing recommended, as well as hearty protein-rich food.

Transparent garnet. Lusciously ripe nose but extremely fresh on the palate, with medicinal and herbal top notes. Only medium body, despite the alcoholic strength, but this opens up most impressively on the finish – a real fan of flavour! I tasted this over several days and found it really opened up with time, which bodes well for its longevity. Real lift and truly beautiful texture on the finish with a hint of unsweetened chocolate. You could drink this now but do aerate it well before serving. 14.5%
Drink 2022 – 2035

This is the first release of The Wheelright, named after Johann Christian Henschke, the founding father and first-generation winemaker at Henschke. A skilled stonemason and wheelwright, I imagine he would be pretty chuffed to taste this wine and learn that the sixth generation of Henschkes is currently driving this business forwards at a gathering momentum. Made from low-yielding, biodynamically-grown, old-vine Shiraz, the vines were planted near the village of Eden Valley at 500m in 1968 by fourth-generation winemaker Cyril Henschke. This vintage commemorates 150 years of Henschke winemaking, so it is somewhat of a landmark. This is a rather different style of Shiraz to the others in this collection, given it comes from a higher site and a wetter one, too. There is not the density of black fruit that one finds in Mount Edelstone or Hill of Grace in this beautiful wine and to use an ecclesiastical analogy, it seems as if the bass voices have taken time out from the choir and left the altos, tenors and sopranos to carry on with their anthems! Red-fruited in style with floral notes and lip-smacking savouriness on the finish, this is a spicy, energetic Shiraz that seems to deliver its message effortlessly. So many wines try so hard to impress, but The Wheelright keeps rolling along with a wonderful, measured tempo. Vital, sonorous and energetic, while you can drink it today, I anticipate it will hold for two decades, such is the intricacy of its tannins and the crispness of the acidity on the finish. Drink now – 2040.

This has a very elegant feel with sultry and earthy tones, as well as white pepper, raspberry and redcurrant aromas. Spicy and vivid. There’s freshness and elegance to the quite refined and fine-boned palate, as well as a peppery edge. Fine tannins hold fresh and long. Drink over the next six years. Screw cap.

The epitome of elegance with its sheen of silky, pure red fruits and lissome acidity, in 2017 this Eden Valley Shiraz is closer to Adelaide Hills geographically and in spirit. Medium-bodied, the beguiling strawberry and plum palate is delicately scented with pink peppercorn, coltsfoot, pine needle and black pepper. Subtle undertones of moss, twig and wattleseed draw you in further. Drinking beautifully now, with soft grainy tannins to the finish and lingering spice. Drinking Window 2022 – 2037