Richebourg, Domaine Hudelot-Noellat 2020

This is also exuberantly spicy though not necessarily as aromatically complex at present with its slightly more deeply pitched nose. There is equally good mid-palate density and even better power and muscle to the large-scaled yet still refined and more mineral-driven flavors that culminate in a balanced, graceful and even more structured finale. This brilliant effort is class in a glass and a wine that should age for two decades with zero worries.

The king of the cellar is the 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru, a magical wine in the making that wafts from the glass with aromas of cherries, red berries, exotic spices, licorice and orange rind. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and concentrated, with lively acids and a strikingly persistent finish. Again, this looks likely to emerge as the finest of the 2018, 2019 and 2020 trio chez Hudelot-Noëllat.