Saint Aubin Derriere Chez Edouard Haute Densite, Domaine Hubert Lamy 2020

The 2020 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derrière Chez Edouard Haute Densité is another brilliant rendition of one of contemporary Burgundy's most fascinating wines. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of lime zest, white flowers, wet stones, oyster shell and subtle reduction, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a multidimensional core of fruit that's framed by racy acids and huge reserves of chalky dry extract. Incisive, penetrating and tightly wound, anyone lucky enough to acquire a bottle or two should plan on a minimum of a decade's patience.

This cuvée now includes both the 20,000 and 30000 vines per hectare plantings. Light green inflections to the mid lemon yellow colour. Much more bouquet here than the Tremblots, more weight of fruit, some citron confit, a vast wealth of fruit all across the palate, then an electric finish. The wealth behind this is extraordinary, shows what it is about at a level over and above the Tremblots. Drink from 2028-2038. Tasted: November 2022.