Montrachet, Domaine des Comtes Lafon 2003

The most obviously wooded wine in the range with pronounced pain grillé notes highlighting gorgeously complex, moderately ripe white flower, green apple and pear aromas that merge seamlessly into generous, pure, powerful, taut and sweet full-bodied flavors that display a wonderfully silky texture and huge length. This quite transcends the vintage and despite the size, weight and ripeness, it reminds me rather of a hypothetical blend of the '02 and '03. In short, this is a knock-out wine that should see its 20th birthday in great shape.