Birak, Aseginolaza y Leunda 2021

The 2021 Birak is a lot fresher than the 2020 I tasted next to it. The year was cooler and the ripening slower, and they picked the grapes earlier. The wine has lower alcohol (13.5%) and a more vibrant palate, with red berry fruit, some flowers and a citrus touch (orange peel) with an initial flinty/stony reduction. 4,090 bottles produced. It was bottled in March 2022.

Garnacha 88% and Tempranillo 12% from unirrigated bush vines on calcareous clay soils at 400-490 m. Hand-harvested, totally destemmed and fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless-steel vessels. Aged for two months in old French oak barrels. Deep crimson. Initially a rather animal impression on the nose but it becomes something more reductive/smoky. Distinctive style, peppery, dark-red fruit, a little bit wild. Tannins and acid are just filled out by the fruit. Sour-fresh finish. Chewy, characterful rather than elegant.