Syrah Reserve, Lismore Estate Vineyards 2021

The 2021 Syrah Estate Reserve, which comes from the vineyard most damaged by the fire in 2020, is 50% whole bunches and aged of 500- and 700-liter barrels, 25% new. The potent nose has raspberry coulis, blueberry and touches of cough candy, taking its time to settle in the glass and lose its initial exuberance. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled, slightly chalky tannins. It’s fresh and vibrant, sapid towards the finish, with a long, Côte-Rôtie-like aftertaste and garrigue notes filtering through with time. This should be afforded a couple of years in bottle and will continue to evolve over the next 15-20 years. Just 12% alcohol, too.

Popping with bright red florals and notes of crushed red berries, the 2021 Syrah is fresh, elegant and focused. Medium-bodied and with 13% alcohol, the palate displays fine-grained tannins with bright, crunchy red fruit flavors before displaying elegance and grace. The wine continues to uncoil, offering seductive, spicy elements with soft notes of turned earth and a delightful savory note. 15,000 bottles were produced after the wine rested for 11 months in 15% new oak barrels. Drink 2023-2037.

The fruit on this wine is singing like a lark. A proper songbird of a wine. A hint of pepper, pink and purple pepper: molle peppercorns, the cool warmth of Sichuan pepper. Very transparent, full of wild cherries – the fruit on this has spine-tingling purity. Thirst-quenching and limpid. O'Keefe said she's had to release it too early, but I find it joyful. Irresistible, already! (TC)