Richebourg, Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur 2005

A potent but very reserved, indeed almost backward mix of wood spice, Vosne spice, earth, smoke, animale and gorgeous black berry fruit aromas blend into rich, full and wonderfully deep flavors that are supple and not as concentrated as those of the GE but there is no lack of mid-palate fat to buffer the somewhat austere and firmly structured finish. I like the balance here and there is really good depth of material that is presently robust but hugely long and this should make for a most impressive wine in 12 to 15 years.

Full red-ruby, not quite as dark as the other grand crus at this address. Reticent but wild nose hints at black raspberry, minerals and game. At once powerful and suave, with terrific inner-palate tension and sneaky intensity of dark fruit and violet flavor. Finishes impressively long, with thoroughly buffered, fine-grained tannins. Gros prefers wines that combine power and roundness, and he ventured the opinion that only grand crus can give the sweetness with strength that he prizes.