Macon Pierreclos Tris de Chavigne, Domaine Guffens-Heynen 2023

It's an open question whether the 2023 Mâcon-Pierreclos Tri de Chavigne or its 2020 counterpart will turn out to be superior—and given that 2020 ranks as one of Guffens's greatest vintages of the last 40 decades, that's saying something. Bursting with aromas of white peach, confit citrus and exotic fruits mingled with white flowers and toasted nuts, the 2023 appears to be the more demonstrative of the two, with a medium to full-bodied, satiny and chiseled palate framed by terrific structuring dry extract. Anyone who has the opportunity to buy it by the case shouldn't hesitate, as it is a classic in the making.

Only recently bottled but showing remarkably well already, this is a real highlight of Jean-Marie's range in 2023 (as it so often is). Jean-Marie Guffens believes that 2023 is an "absolutely top-notch" rendition of this cuvée. We agree. This wine is the result of three separate pickings (or Tris in French) that took place over 12 days in September from the heart of the old vines in this vineyard. Elevage was all in oak barrels, with 25% new. Bright and pale but with a golden hue, this vintage effortlessly expresses the intention and method of its maker with supple orchard fruits forming the core of both nose and palate. The aromatics sway between more tropical, spicy notes, tensile citrus, creamy lees and smoky wood. On the palate the prowess of this wine is clearly on show - it is concentrated and ripe but formed around a steely backbone of acidity. Generous in fruit, savoury in lees and wood spice, succulent in texture, this is quintessential Guffens. There are gentle sparks of struck flint, more of that salty preserved lemon character, cashew nuts and glossy peach notes on a long, buttery but never heavy finish. A superb effort that already offers pleasure but will doubtless grow with 5 or so years in bottle.

Jean-Marie Guffens believes that the 2023 vintage is an "absolutely top-notch" rendition on this cuvée. First of all, young vines and the last pressings were relegated to a new Bourgogne Blanc label and then the grapes from vines lower down the slope were made into a "regular" Chavigne cuvée. This wine is the result of three separate pickings (or Tris in French) that took place over 12 days in September. Elevage was all in oak barrels, with 25% new. Pale golden yellow in the glass, this is immediately impressive on the nose. Pine nuts, peach, a hint of pineapple and brighter lemon fruit showcase the method of harvest. Underneath there is seductive but well-measured spice from the wood. The palate has great density without being heavy. A bomb of fruit coats the palate, creating a succulent, intense mouthfeel. This is sweet, smoky and spicy but never falls out of balance, a real masterclass in power and precision. There is a chalky grip that holds everything together beautifully. This is a terrific Tri de Chavigne - I'd give it a year or two in bottle just to mellow a little, but it is hard to spit already.