Pouilly Fuisse Premiers Jus des Premiers Crus, Domaine Guffens-Heynen 2023

As readers will remember, Guffens's fermage in La Roche ran its course, so the 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Premiers Jus des Premiers Crus is derived entirely from Les Crays, a more exotic terroir. Bursting with notes of pear, buttered toast, honeycomb and fresh mint, it's full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a fleshy, seamless core of fruit, racy acids and a long, saline finish. This flamboyant but unerringly pure and precise white Burgundy has turned out brilliantly. Drink 2027-2050.

This year this cuvée is much smaller than before as Jean-Marie has lost his fermage of the La Roche vineyard (after 42 years, as the commune of Vergisson has re-allocated it to a younger vigneron). Consequently, it is made entirely from Premier Cru Les Crays. Total production was just 3 barrels which will produce 75 cases. Pale lemon-gold in the glass. The nose is rich here, like a Corton or Batard in style, dense with butter-roasted peach, toasted nuts and custard apple. The palate is generous, dense and very powerful, with more roasted stone fruit and beurre noisette. This is a full-bodied powerhouse of a wine, held together with the fine acid that that the Premier Jus style allows. It will need a couple of years in bottle. Mouthcoating and minutes long on the finish, which peacock-tails with a flourish of ripe fruit, baking spice and whipped butter, this is another incredibly impressive bottling from Jean-Marie's range of outstanding 2023s.