Beauséjour Duffau 1998

This was at a moment when Beauséjour Duffau Lagarosse was far more traditional in its approach than today, before Nicolas Thienpont and Stéphane Derenoncourt arrived in 2009, and yet it still stands out as an exceptionally beautiful wine, in a vintage that has a deserved reputation in St Emilion. Expect saffron, wild strawberries, fine tannins, saline-drenched stones, cold ash, campfire smoke, blackberry liqueur, all perfectly melted together at this point, easy-going but with flavours that hug the palate. Jean-Michel Dubos owner, Bernard Oizeau cellar master and Michel Rolland consultant. Blend is an estimate.

This dark ruby/purple-colored, mid-weight, restrained, graceful effort reveals aromas and flavors of minerals, blueberries, and flowers, not dissimilar from some of Burgundy's grand cru Vosne-Romanees. Nicely-textured, soft, with adequate tannin to frame its medium-bodied style, it is approachable, yet should age nicely for 10-12 years. Last tasted, 3/02.