Every year, for over a quarter of a century now, a group of wine merchants and writers have got together to taste a Bordeaux vintage as it reached 10 years of age. When I joined the group in the early 1990’s the tastings were held at the home of the late Bill Baker, wine merchant, wine taster and gourmet extraordinaire. The tastings were also held sometimes at The White Horse Inn at Chilgrove where Barry Phillips had built up a legendary wine list. More recently, the tastings have taken place at Farr Vintners and this year was the first time in our wonderful new offices where we have a magnificent tasting room over-looking the River Thames.
Our day on the Right Bank started with an 8.30 am appointment at Le Tertre Roteboeuf. This is always a favourite visit for us. The cellars here are reminiscent of Burgundy with their earth floor and damp walls. Francois Mitjavile is a charming, modest and welcoming host. The wines are pure, delicate and fine. His three wines in 2015, and our taste of Tertre Roteboeuf 2014, showed a perfect balance between ripeness and freshness. By contrast, the next visit was to the opulent marble palace that is Pavie. No expense has been spared at this newly promoted First Growth property that has the feel of a super-luxury five star hotel. The wines served here were all black in colour with alcohol nudging 15 degrees. Some of these could have been spread on our morning toast, such was their concentration. A teeth-staining experience! Next up were Ausone, Angelus, Cheval Blanc and Figeac. There’s no doubt that 2015 is a great vintage in Saint Emilion and Pomerol, something which is particularly evident at Cheval Blanc where they announced that the vintage is so good for them that they will not be making any of their second wine, Petit Cheval, this year. Virtually the whole production of this famous vineyard will go into the grand vin with just a small amount sold off in bulk.
The 12 strong Farr Vintners team are in Bordeaux this week to taste barrel samples of the 2015 vintage. We will be tasting over 300 wines over the next few days from this promising year for the region's red and white wines. With us for this trip, once again, is Master of Wine Derek Smedley who has tasted every vintage en primeur here since 1961. Derek is a human encyclopaedia of Bordeaux wines and vintages and gives our team a unique insight into the process of tasting en primeur.
