Champagne Charles Heidsieck is one of the great names of Champagne though one that flies under the radar, despite the undoubted quality of the wines and the story behind them. Camille-Charles Heidsieck was the original “Champagne Charlie”, who founded the house in 1851, breaking away from the family business to go it alone, notably in the United States, where the popularity of the Champagne and the man himself made him a legend.
Their Brut Reserve is a wine that typifies the quality on offer. Not only is it one of the better-priced grand marques it is, qualitatively-speaking, right at the top. A recent tasting at the Farr Vintners offices gave us a more complete understanding of what the fuss is all about.
The major factor which sets the wine apart from its peers is the very high proportion of reserve wines in the blend. Throughout much of the first decade of the century Charles Heidsieck was rather lost in the Rémy Cointreau portfolio though the subsequent lack of sales very much had a positive upside: the house built up an enviable quantity of reserve wines – these reserves make up 50% of the current release and are up to 10 years old. The only other famous house which could make the same claim for its non-vintage wine is Krug.
The resulting wine offers a depth, complexity and richness that punches well above its NV status. The wine has a round, plump generosity and opulence making it incredibly moreish. The current release, based on the excellent 2019 vintage and disgorged last year, is absolutely lovely stuff. If you are not familiar with the house, we strongly recommend you give this a try.
Based on the 2019 vintage and enriched by 50% reserve wines—stored in steel tanks and incorporating some 100 individual wines, averaging a decade in age—Charles Heidsieck’s NV Brut Réserve opens with aromas of candied lemon peel, ripe pear and pineapple mingling with buttered toast and a hint of burnt sugar. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, charming and textural, with a sweet and fleshy fruit core, succulent yet vibrant acidity and a persistent, toasty finish. Disgorged in 2024 with a dosage of nine grams per liter, after nearly four years aging sur lattes, it represents another strong rendition of this reliable cuvée.
Another brilliant wine based on the 2019 vintage, Charles Heidsieck's Brut Reserve opens with beautiful, sweet citrus, fleshy orchard fruit and layered, nutty, bready complexity from lees ageing and a significant proportion of reserve wine. The palate is supple, with a generous mousse, creamy texture and intense flavours of shortbread, preserved lemons, and pure, juicy peach and pear. There's a hit of light reductive smoke, toasted nuts and bread dough. Long, layered and sumptuous on the finish, it is delicious to drink now but will evolve nicely in the bottle for 5-8 years.
