A wine that needs no introduction to lovers of Verget White Burgundy. This is made from a part of the "Sur La Roche" vineyard in Pouilly-Fuissé that faces north-east, so it is only entitled to the Macon appellation, rather than the section facing south which is classed as Pouilly Fuissé Premier Cru. As in 2024, the production was half of what it normally is with only 400 cases. It was elevaged all in oak with 25% new. Now bottled, this is even better than it was from barrel. A serious, deep nose that unfurls in the glass with notes of wet stone, struck flint, lemon curd, lime blossom and fresh peach. The palate leads with acid tension, but the fine, intense fruit grows in the mouth. Never fat or heavy, this is a high-wire act. Citrus leads, with more of that flinty, stony character, and there is a lick of sweet spice to round things out. A pure, powerful wine, this is bordering on domaine level thanks to its grip and depth. A quite brilliant wine for the money.
The 2025 Mâcon-Vergisson Sur La Roche, as is customary, derives from vines situated on the upper reaches of Vergisson, and blossoms in the glass with notes of peach, pear and freshly baked bread, followed by a medium- to full-bodied palate that is fleshy and layered, underpinned by a deep core of fruit and commendable tension. It is well worth seeking out.
