The 2024 Vintage Port is the first release for seven years, and the smallest release at just 3,900 cases. It has a gorgeous nose that is so typical of Fonseca. It is more exotic and Mediterranean than its sibling, Taylor's, blackberry intermingling with black olive tapenade, Provençal herbs, garrigue and melted tar. Superb definition. The palate is supremely well balanced with luscious black fruit tinged with white pepper and spice box. Very harmonious, with outstanding weight yet ethereal control and harmony on the finish, this is one of the greatest Fonseca releases in recent years. 2035-2085.
Fruit from Quinta do Panascal, Quinta do Cruzeiro and Quinta de Sto António, whole bunches, varieties co-fermented in granite lagares. Typically foot-trodden to start before the mechanical pistons take over. The spirit for fortification is made from their own grapes. 7–8 months in small seasoned oak vats in the Douro and then 10 months in the same vats in Vila Nova de Gaia. TA 4.5 g/l, pH 3.66, RS 96 g/l. Total production 3,900 cases.
More restrained than the Croft, but it opens up to violets and blueberries. Floral. Pretty, with underlying power. Great freshness and extremely pure fruit. Fine, chalky tannins with a lovely dusty finish. Fragrant and dry on the finish. Drink: 2034 – 2070.
A blend from Santo António and Cruzeiro in the Pinhão Valley with more fruit from Panascal downstream, 3,600 cases in total. Seemingly the deepest in colour of the Fladgate quartet combining perfume and glorious black fruit concentration on the nose (there’s a touch of dark chocolate here); similarly rich and profound on the palate, plummy fruit backed by firm, ripe sinewy tannins, almost explosive and beautifully structured, leading to a peacock’s tail of a finish that goes on and on. Still a little stern and raw, this is a wow of a wine (I wrote ‘wow’ twice in my notes) that combines the purity and finesse that is the hallmark of 2024 with power and depth. This will be a long-term keeper.
