Moulin a Vent Le Clos, Domaine Labruyere 2019

All but imperceptible wood sets off the very ripe yet still reasonably fresh nose of anise, poached plum, cassis and pepper wisps. The exceptionally rich and borderline thick larger-bodied flavors possess excellent volume and concentration while displaying fine depth and persistence on the very firm built-to-age finale that also slowly reveals noticeable warmth even if it's not quite as prominent. This is a big MAV that should amply repay mid-term keeping. Note: a monopole with a vine age that averages 50+ years

The 2019 Moulin-à-Vent Le Clos Monopole comes from 70-year-old goblet vines and is aged for 10 months in wooden cask. It does have a very Pinot-like bouquet; blind, I would struggle to distinguish this from Côte d'Or. That is not to say that it is not clean and pure; the seductive palate is smooth and harmonious, offering vanilla-y red berry fruit and gentle grip. Nicely poised, with an almost candied finish. Lovely, although it does miss a bit of "Bojo DNA.” Drink 2023-2035.