Chardonnay Uovo, Cherubino 2025

I love Pemberton for Chardonnay. Pemberton is a pretty sensational place to visit regardless of the wine (and truffles and generally excellent fresh produce), but it is here, through the lens of Chardonnay, that we see what this cool, forested region is capable of. Aromatically, the 2025 Uovo Chardonnay leads with soft leaf herbs, pear, white peach and green apple. It is finely wrought and tightly coiled, all the good things here. On the palate, the wine is intense, piercingly driven by bright acidity and long through the finish. This is bracing, make no mistake, and while its angularity may be polarizing, ultimately, the unfettered nature of this cuvée shows the region and the fruit off to great effect. It's a lovely, saline wine. Made in a clay cement ovoid tank, the impact of the lees is more pronounced than the impact of the vessel, although perhaps that is the vessel speaking, in a way. 12.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.