Chardonnay Tasmania, Dawson James 2018

A tiny bit reduced on the nose and palate, with the richness and tang of creamy goat's cheese (tastes glorious, even if that's a tasting note that doesn't sound great) but masses of pink grapefruit, pomelo and citron, a fleeting breath-on-lip kiss of beeswax that leaves an impression of frangipani, rosemary and marzipan. Flecks of sweet, smoky butterscotch tucked into rich, deep-gold peach and clementine. The acidity has stunning concentration, whorled into a conical vortex, ripe and beautifully curvaceous. Complex and arresting, it took my breath away. Drink: 2024-2034