Chardonnay, Mount Mary 2022

I really like this wine, more so every year. Stylistically, it sits in a classical, nutty, creamy sort of space; the sophistication of it seems to be refined each vintage, which sends it in the right direction, for my tastes anyway. On the nose, this 2022 Chardonnay presents salted cashews, white spring florals, firm nectarine, Golden Delicious apple and a splay of beeswax/tatami mat nuances and brine. On the palate, the wine builds on the path set forth by the bouquet—it is rich and wide, textural and fulsome yet with acidity and length that drags the width of the wine out to a focused and long close. It fermented in barrel, with malolactic fermentation eschewed, and it matured in a selection of French barriques (30% new), older barrels and large cask (500 liters). Hard pressing constructs the phenolic shape of the wine—a great thing—and the wine was matured for 11 months. The acidity through the finish is salty and juicy, and it leaves an uptick of energy and life in the mouth once the wine is gone. This is really good. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Drink: 2024-2037

Wonderfully minerally and discrete, with aromas of lemon confit, gun smoke, lanolin, beeswax and honeysuckle. The palate is extremely tightly wound with laser-like acidity, giving notes of grapefruit pith, candied lime zest, orange blossoms and river stones. Minerally and energetic with an underlying texture and power. Excellent. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

A really fragrant Chardonnay which somehow reminds me of spring when I lift it to my nose: daffodil and grapefruit and lemon-zested cultured butter. Fragrance on the palate, too – lemongrass perhaps. The acidity has sweetness despite its racy, green-etched line: electric lime-green honey with just a glint of green mango, a glint of sweet grass. Hops on the end. Assured, elegant, and striking a clear, true line between body weight and geometry. Drink: 2025-2034