CDP Clos des Papes, Paul Avril Clos des Papes 2022

The 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape is showing beautifully, with the sun-kissed style of the vintage yet more depth and density than most in the vintage. Blackberries, Provençal garrigue, spice, and saddle leather all define the aromatics, and it hits the palate with the classic elegance of the estate in its medium to full-bodied, layered, multi-dimensional style. It's one of the wines of the vintage and will have two decades of longevity. (Drink between 2024-2044)

The 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape is a richly concentrated effort, dark-fruited and loaded with black cherries and blackberries, yet it's not without nuance, as it includes hints of asphalt, truffle and dried spices. Full-bodied (15.4% alcohol), deep and velvety, with a long, softly dusty finish, it looks to be a real beauty, capable of aging up to two decades.

A touch less Mourvèdre this year, but not enough to change the profile of the wine, which is fairly classic albeit pretty bombastic in 2022. Raspberry and black cherry, ripe and exuberant. Full but not massive, the alcohol is present, slightly warming the finish. Tannins are a little grainy, so I would give this time to settle before broaching. Succulent and juicy, with a touch of liquorice. Vincent Avril believes the wine could close down quite early on. So drink young, or (even better) wait until 2030. All destemmed, aged in old foudres.

Despite a hailstorm that destroyed approximately one-third of the crop this year, Paul-Vincent Avril managed to produce a wine with the same grape proportions as in previous years, thanks to his vineyard's diverse and fragmented nature. So, the 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape from Clos des Papes reveals a delicate, aromatic bouquet of peony, gooseberry, lilac, flowers and cherries mingled with delicate notes of fennel and menthol. Medium to full-bodied, sappy and layered, it's perfectly textured with velvety, delicate tannins enhanced by bright acids and a long, ethereal finish. Although the Mourvèdre is slightly dominant at this stage, this wine is unquestionably poised for great aging potential.

The 2022 vintage at Clos des Papes has turned out exceptionally well, producing wines with beautifully balanced structures and aromatic bouquets, bright acids and tension, despite losing one-third of the crop to an August hailstorm. Paul-Vincent Avril, a conscientious vigneron, understands that nature is not always generous. Like his ancestors, he has ensured the estate covers a reasonably large area. The vineyard is scattered across the various terroirs and sectors of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, planted with a mix of all authorized grape varieties, concentrating on Grenache for the reds and Clairette and Grenache Blanc for the whites. The estate now spans nearly 35 hectares, divided into 24 parcels. The soils are meticulously cultivated to encourage deep rooting, enabling the vines to better withstand the heat and droughts so common in this part of France. Yields are carefully controlled through practices such as short pruning, severe de-budding and occasionally green harvesting in early August. The estate has been certified organic since 2010. Mr. Avril made changes in the cellar in 1992, avoiding whole bunches and extending the maceration period without pumping over or punching down the cap (pigéage) to add more structure in the mid-palate. All maturation takes place in foudres of 43–65 hectoliters, and since 1988, there has been no filtration before bottling. Clos des Papes’s red and white wines are known for their finesse, ethereal quality, aromatic complexity and capacity for aging.

The 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape reminds me of the 2007 with its incredible sexiness and seamless, elegant texture. Black cherry liqueur, Provençal herbs, flowers, and licorice are just some of its nuances, and it's full-bodied, with a layered mouthfeel, gorgeous tannins, and a great, great finish. Tasted from multiple foudre, this is unquestionably up with the finest in the vintage, and as I’ve written in the past, it’s almost impossible to have too much Clos des Papes in the cellar!