Finca Piedra Infinita Supercal, Familia Zuccardi 2022

This is citric and austere yet delicate on the nose. Crunchy blue fruit lifts the profile. The palate is all about precision, with focused, chalky tannins and a refined sense of fruit. Saline, detailed and deeply intriguing. Sourced from a 0.93-hectare parcel on the western side of Finca Infinita in Altamira, named after the thick calcareous film found in its soil. Fermented and aged in concrete without epoxy lining. Drink now or hold

The somewhat bracing nature of the 2022 vintage, combined with the inherently slender profile of this parcel, could, on paper, result in a wine in which the structure overrides its textural depth, but I found that emphatically not to be the case with the 2022 Finca Piedra Infinita Supercal. Sharing the top slot in an undeniably impressive portfolio, this spectacular bottling is rendered with an additional level of transfixing purity coupled with a somewhat ineffable sense of stoicism and understatement that makes it simply one of the most compelling wines in Argentina. Relative to its counterparts from the same site, there is an elevated level of fine-boned, sculpted texture here, foregrounding the site's pure, unadulterated structure while still providing the perfect amount of stuffing to carry such a profile without veering into angularity. This is the very definition of a wine in which the variety and winemaking simply vanish, leaving only a profound sense of its origins rendered with nearly unparalleled transparency. In contrast to the incendiary nature of the Gravascal bottling, I find the gossamer, restrained profile here all the more alluring.

Another stunning vintage of the 2022 Malbec Finca Piedra Infinita Supercal, from the 3,609-foot vineyard next to the winery, this wine is fermented and aged all in concrete for maximum purity and sense of place, delivering on all levels, from salinity to structure to sanguine herbaceousness. It’s all there, an exotic, evocative, and contemplative undertaking of tremendous power and refinement, balanced by a purity of red fruit, silky tannin, and buoyant underlying energy. This is an austere, medium-bodied wine that will hit a peak in 10 years and go another 20-25.