Chevalier Montrachet, Bouchard Père et Fils 2020

This chardonnay masterpiece is currently like a fully wound Breguet watch, but the extremely subtle nose of citrus, wild herbs and flowers is already breathtaking. Mind-blowing concentration, purity and precision on the generous but by no means massive palate. The really extraordinary thing is the intense crushed-stone minerality that's married to sensual creaminess on the mid-palate, then asserts itself ever more singularly at the finish, until it's completely overwhelming. From 2.33 hecatres of vineyards on all four terraces of this famous site. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.