Grange, Penfolds 2022

There are times when a tasting of an icon wine can leave you slightly underwhelmed. This was not one of those times. Standing out like an A-lister in a spotlight among the 2026 Collection releases, this 75th anniversary vintage of Grange deserves every standing ovation the audience can give. Coming from a cool growing season – 'I always like the cooler years,' shares chief winemaker Peter Gago – 2022 blends fruit from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Coonawarra, spending 18 months in new American oak hogsheads. Already offering so much aromatically, with a finely detailed nose that layers rose petals and spice with meaty and earthy tones; so fresh and harmonious. With just 3% of Cabernet in the mix, the palate showcases absolute purity of Shiraz fruit; somehow managing to combine plushness with elegance and vivid energy. Yes, you can deconstruct the impeccable tannins and trademark Grange volatile acidity; but I suspect you'll be swept up in the effortless balance and lingering finish of a wine that already feels so complete, though it also has decades ahead of it. Bravo!

The 2022 Grange comprises 97% Shiraz and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Coonawarra. As always the wine matured for 18 months in American oak hogsheads (100% new). The 2022 vintage in South Australia was magnificent. I've loved the wines. It will always live in the shadow of the exceptional 2021 vintage. The season for Grange growers was shaped by a cool, measured growing season across South Australia. Good winter rainfall supported early vine growth, while unsettled spring weather, including hail, reduced yields, particularly for Barossa Valley Shiraz. A mild summer with few extreme heat events allowed slow, even ripening across key regions. Low yields, healthy canopies and extended hang time produced small berries, firm tannins, retained freshness and controlled power. Aromatically, the wine leads with licorice and blackberry, raspberry seed, cold tea and civet paste too. This is intensely concentrated (almost boring to mention that, given it is definitely the house style), powerful and black in character. Grange is made from fully ripe, structured Shiraz grapes sourced from South Australian regions. First produced experimentally in 1951, it has been made in every vintage since and is associated with the relationship between Shiraz and the soils and climates of South Australia. The tannins are primal and arrive with a snarl; they linger once the wine has gone and show immense dominance over all but the fruit. It's a great Grange. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

Another excellent release with a cooler, softer feel reflecting the vintage conditions. Black and blue berries with plum skin, mint, leather, cedar, bitter chocolate, bay leaf and ferric earth. The palate is silky and unctuous with no hard edges, melting tannins and a tense, salivating finish with a savory-edged austerity. A wine with decades ahead to unravel its nuance. A blend of 97% shiraz and 3% cabernet sauvignon. Drink or hold.

Rich plum colour, intense, fragrant violet and peony flowers, crushed cocoa bean and cola, dark chocolate, silky smooth tannins. These guys know exactly how to deliver a masterclass in vivid, crystal clear flavours, and you're not going to go wrong. Peter Gago winemaker, Tom King director.