The 2013 is the most powerful, dense young Salon I have ever tasted. Champagne of mind-bending complexity, the 2013 possesses tremendous mid-palate intensity and power from the very first taste. Lemon confit, dried flowers, mint and a touch of brioche appear first, followed by light tropical accents that add an exotic flair. Imagine the sizzling energy of the 2008 and the persistence of 2004, with more mid-palate richness and riper fruit. Two-thousand thirteen was a cool, late ripening year. Harvest started at the beginning of October under sunny, dry days and cool nights, conditions that have not been seen since then. Readers will find a spectacular, modern Salon endowed with tremendous depth and very little of the youthful austerity that once defined Champagnes from cooler years here. The 5.5 grams per liter of dosage is perfectly judged. In a word: Magnificent.
The brilliant nose, at once fresh, bright and complex, is even more beguiling than that of the 2012, which is already reference standard for anyone who loves blanc de blancs Champagne. Moreover, it is more expressive than I anticipated with its array of green apple, baked bread, just sliced citrus, quinine and a hint of Chablis-like iodine. The racy yet delicate mouthfeel of the lilting middle weight flavors that is enhanced by the super-fine, if decidedly firm, mousse before terminating in an already complex, harmonious and very dry yet not especially austere finale that goes on and on. Among many attributes to choose from, perhaps my favorite is the underlying sense of poise the ’13 Salon exudes as it’s classy as hell but not inaccessible; otherwise expressed, this is seriously good but borderline gulpable. In short, I was knocked out by this monument in the making and it’s entirely possible that my rating will one day be found to be overly conservative. As longtime readers know, Burghound doesn’t hand out 98-point ratings like they’re candy so when I tell you that this is genuinely great, I’m not kidding. I would further note that despite the fact that this wine has years of evolution ahead of it, it’s already so good that I hesitate to advise waiting; that’s just how good this already is. If you can stomach the hefty tariff, doesn’t hesitate.
At the moment, disarmingly open and approachable (Didier Depond compares 2013 to 1983 in this respect and expects it to close down in 18–24 months). Subtle biscuit notes on the nose, creamy on the palate with masses of concentration and many layers of texture. Fine mousse with a savoury/salty edge freshening up the finish. Plenty of driving acidity underneath but not at all unbalanced. Clearly a very long future ahead and I suspect it will need to be cellared for at least 5 years if not enjoyed in the first flush of ‘youth’!
A very special vintage for this wine, the 2013 Champagne Salon pours a pale yellow/green-tinged color and has a very pretty nose revealing round, pure notes of citrus blossom, a hint of almond pastry, fresh lemon meringue, and pure pear. But while the nose is expressive, the palate is still coiled and intense, with a pure, driving, chalky texture, power, and length, as well as a great deal of electricity that carries through the palate, with a pinpoint, focused mousse. This is going to be a great wine for collectors and for aging over the coming decades. This wine is singing. Comparing it with the Salon 82 and Salon 83 will be one of the great arguments over the years. 5 grams per liter dosage. Drink 2024-2044.
Very light, burnished gold and animated by an extra fine mousse, the 2013 Salon is an exquisite le Mesnil-sur-Oger Blanc de Blancs from a later, and slower ripening vintage. Aged ten years on fine lees and disgorged January 2023 with a six gram per liter dosage, the 2013 brings pure, aromatic luminescence to the glass with notes of warm tarte tatin, crème brulée, citrus confit, lemon sorbet, crushed oyster shells and viburnum blossom. Medium-bodied, the mineral-driven palate is texturally poised and completed by a measured depth of fruit intensity charged with seamless acidity that coats the palate like electric satin. Well-heeled and sophisticated throughout, this 2013 Salon is pure elegance, harmony and finesse. The incredibly long finish lingers in your mind for days, if not longer.
2013 is a cool, late-ripening vintage in Champagne, defined by an October harvest in cool but sunny conditions. With a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter, the 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil possesses a complex, fruity bouquet mingling aromas of orchard fruit with notions of lemon oil, exotic fruits, spring flowers, almond and hints of menthol and buttery pastry. Full-bodied, rich and dense, with lively acids, it’s more complex and incisive than the 2002 and exhibits similar power to the 2012 at this early stage. Despite what was a challenging growing season for some producers, this is a superb Salon with a long, resonant finish.
