Chardonnay Pemberton, Cherubino 2022

Margaret River is Western Australia’s golden child, but the lesser-known region of Pemberton has the capacity to produce nuanced, detailed and fine Chardonnay. The fact that Larry Cherubino has chosen this wine as his flagship Chardonnay is a sign of things to come. The winemaking is essentially the same at his premium Margaret River Chardonnay, yet the cooler, inland terroir of Pemberton speaks loudly in the bottle. This has a fine nose full of spice and an almost piercing line of focus. Fruit is on the crisp citrus spectrum, laden with plenty of minerality. The palate has surprising depth and breadth after the elegance and light fluidity of the nose, and there is serious length on show. A tiny amount of malo and plenty of solids at play. A unique shape defined by precise winemaking and great fruit. (Drink between 2023-2033)

The 2022 Pemberton Chardonnay is composed and nutty, with white peach and apricot fuzz, cashews and green apple skins and layers of saffron and Indian spice. The acidity is the calling card of great Pemberton Chardonnay; the area is cool with good rainfall, and the best wines come across as both finely structured and intensely flavored. Restraint is the order of the day. The phenolics are firm through the finish, but this speaks more of future promise than it does any issues. This is a super, super wine. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.