Puligny Clos du Cailleret, Domaine des Lambrays 2023

Mid lemon yellow. A classical bouquet with the limestone flesh here, the fruit more white stone fruit than anything obviously riper, with fine tension and excellent minerality underlying the warmth of the fruit. Excellent intensity, just the right degree of acidity and fine length.

The 2023 Clos du Cailleret from Jacques Devauges at the Domaine des Lambrays is superb, with pronounced aromas of pomelo and nectarine, floral notes and a firm, mineral underpinning. Despite the year's warmth, lovely freshness and marvellous depth work together to draw this to a lingering finish. Harvest began on 1 September. The grapes were pressed as whole clusters and are ageing in cask, one new out of seven. (Drink between 2030-2050)