Ulysse Collin Les Enfers Blanc de Blancs 60 Months Base Vintage 2018

Ulysse Collin’s NV Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers (2018 base) 72 months, complemented by 25% reserve wines from 2017 and 2016 and matured for 72 months in the cellar, was disgorged in February 2025 with a dosage of 2.4 grams per liter. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, pear, blanched almonds and beeswax mingled with notes of freshly baked bread and smoke, it is medium- to full-bodied, ample and muscular, with a layered core of fruit, ripe yet vibrant acidity and a long, saline finish. The wine exhibits a distinctly vinous profile and almost surgical precision, the latter attributable in part to the introduction of a new press in 2018, which permits more selective extraction and greater control. While the gap between Les Enfers and Les Roises is often narrow, this year the latter stands as the undisputed king of the cellar. As ever, Les Enfers derives from an east-facing site in the Coteaux du Petit Morin, a stone’s throw from Les Roises.