Macon Pierreclos Juliette et Les Vieilles de Chavigne, Domaine Guffens-Heynen 2016

The 2016 Mâcon-Pierreclos Juliette et les Vieilles de Chavigne hails from a parcel of vines ("Juliette") that were stunted by the 2003 heatwave and which have always produced tiny yields: the more generous crop of 2016 gave Guffens sufficient volume to fulfill a long-standing ambition to vinify them separately; but the resulting juice was so intensely concentrated that he added some old-vine fruit from Chavigne ("les Vieilles"). The wine is quite extraordinary—and likely to number among the domaine's greatest hits over the years—wafting from the glass with aromas of Anjou pear, ripe citrus fruit, dried white flowers and crushed chalk. On the palate, it's full-bodied, powerful and enveloping, with a broad, expansive and multidimensional attack that's supported by an incredibly incisive, racy line of acids, concluding with an electric, tongue-tingling finish. It's a stunning wine that entirely subverts preconceived appellation hierarchies, and readers should make every effort to secure a few bottles. Drink 2020-2040.

Domaine Guffens-Heynen is one of the great domaines of Burgundy. Ample but incisive, concentrated but weightless, Guffens's wines represent the apotheosis of a grape and a place. To say they are the equal of the wines of Puligny-Montrachet or Meursault would be to do them a disservice, because they're all too frequently better.

Lemon fresh the nose is bright the start of the palate mineral driven. There is mid sweetness apricot and nectarine depth of fruit at the back the finish lighter with flinty mineral freshness. 2018-25

From a parcel of vines which were planted in 2003, and which have always produced tiny yields (averaging 20 hL/ha) having been stunted by the extreme heat of that year, the “Juliette et les Vieilles” is composed of grapes which normally go into the Tri de Chavigne. A pure and direct bouquet of lemon zest, lime, preserved lemon, stuck flint and chalky soil tones is followed by a superbly, concentrated, intense and incisive wine, which cuts like a knife, its finish long and precise. Just superb.