Volnay Clos des Ducs, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 2023

Aromas of dark berries cassis and cherries mingled with spices and orange rind in a complex bouquet introduce the 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, a medium to full-bodied, complete wine that in some respects represents the synthesis of the d'Angerville premiers crus—the finesse and perfume of Caillerets, the layers of Taillepieds and the structure of Champans, united in a whole that's more than the sum of its parts.

Elegant and aristocratic, the Clos des Ducs from d'Angerville is a bit restrained initially but opens up with pomegranate and blackberry fruit aromas and flavours on the palate. The wine is not astringent, but one senses the massive structure and impressive length at first taste. Because of the stony limestone and white marl soils in this 2.15ha holding at the top of the premier cru slope, this complex wine will take time to unwind, but it will undoubtedly be worth the wait. (Drink between 2028-2060)