Keyneton Euphonium, Henschke 2021

Spice- and earth-driven aromas of dark cherries, blood plums, blackcurrants, dried herbs and cured meat. The palate is full-bodied with a creamy mouthfeel and finely integrated tannins, giving notes of licorice, mulberries, pepper, mocha and ferric earth. A seamlessly integrated blend of mostly shiraz with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

Deep crimson. Powerful South Australian perfume of ripeness and medicinal scents comes bounding out of the glass. Amazingly gentle tannin structure and some treacle running over the palate but no obvious alcohol at all. Well done! Some pepper here and lots of sweetness but savour too. It's not super-long at this stage which is perhaps why they are holding it back until early May. But it's beautifully made – and lasted pretty well in an opened bottle for many days.

Made from 60% Shiraz and 40% the other three grapes, this is a wickedly expressive Euphonium with a spicy, open and extremely welcoming stance on the palate. Instantly appealing and generously deep, this wine is a superb introduction to the Henschke portfolio, and it represents their important grape varieties, the twin sub-regions, their own vineyards, and those of their greater family and friends. In this respect, it is a clever amalgam of all this fine label represents, and it swings in at an affordable price tag, too. It is also widely available in the UK and internationally distributed, too. So, when I report that this is the finest and most impressive Euphonium in my memory and a siren call for this brand, I hope everyone who has enjoyed a Henschke wine and everyone who has yet to step up to this marque gets involved. In addition, it is just about drinking. While it is not quite as silky or as polished as the Eden Valley brigade (below), it wears its heart on its sleeve, showing a fair degree of glamour, glorious depth and a remarkable array of fruit notes and spices, all delivered in a waterfall of delicious flavours.