Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin, J-L Chave 1991

Made by Gerard Chave with help from his son Jean-Louis, the 1991 Hermitage Cuvée Cathelin is an incredible treat to taste today, now at 31 years after the grapes were harvested. As always, this is a tiny cuvée that's pulled from the Bessards lieu-dit on the western side of this magical south-facing slope. Fully mature and clearly at its peak, it's considerably richer and more layered than the classic Hermitage and has an almost seemingly Burgundian elegance and nuance in its red and black fruits, flowers, rose petals, crushed stone, and subtly gamey nuances. Remarkably complex, it's medium to full-bodied on the palate and is flawlessly balanced, has resolved tannins, and a gorgeous finish. This heavenly, singular Hermitage isn't going to get better, but it will certainly have a gradual evolution going forward. As Jean-Louis has often told me, the wines don't exist until the bottles are opened, so if you have these, come up with a special occasion and pop a cork.